3D Printing w/ CR 10s First Impressions

The printer is a Creality CR-10S: https://amzn.to/2VXJRQM

Just got my first 3D printer, picking up how to use/and maintain the printer along with working with CAD/design software and slicing. Lots of new things to learn, but enjoying it!

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89 comments

  1. slicxx on

    i love your channel, but i can not stand the fact, that you have this AAA-Desk, just to place bulky stuff like a 3D Printer on it haha 😀
    Please tell me you moved it after the video!
    PS: nice video anyway – i love the diverse content you uploaded recently <3

    Reply
  2. easyBob100 on

    Cura hides a lot of settings. Be sure to click on the lil gears next to each setting group to hide/show more settings. One should be for setting top/bottom thickness.

    Reply
  3. Nobu on

    oh boy, you don’t even know what you’ve gotten yourself into yet… welcome to the club!
    Edit: Tighten your belts a bit to make the seam along the side not as obvious.
    Regarding the cup bottom, it may have come off with the raft. Maybe try a Brim instead, or increase the z distance between Raft and Object.

    Reply
  4. Intrepid Protoworks on

    If you print right onto glass with PLA, the temp in the room has to be slightly higher than room temp, and the glass has to be REALLY clean. The filament also typically needs to not have much moisture in it. However, I do not really recommend printing right onto the glass, making sure it works is well, more work than I want to do.

    If I am using glass, hair spray or a glue stick works really well. For glue stick, you want the cheapest stuff you can find like from the dollar store. You really just are looking for a glue stick made of only glycerin paste.

    If you want to go the hair spray route, the best hair spray I have used is the Garnier Fructis Style Extreme Control 5. Make sure to not spay it near the printer as it tends to gum stuff up.

    In any of the above situations, make sure to clean your print surface often.

    I do not really like using tape as it requires more work. There are other options out there which work well but these are the ones I like the most.

    For additional glass surfaces. You can buy precision thickness stuff. Though, you can also go cheap and just use something like the glass out of Wal-Mart picture frames for cheap. The down side is that the glass is not super uniform and that can harm print quality. However, it is cheap and it works. I have had it happen where I had to get a project done a number of times and had the surface break, so cheap and accessible sometimes wins the day.

    Reply
  5. TrueFiction on

    I don’t know the cura specific settings as I use Slic3r PE mainly but it could be number of solid top/bottom layers or infill percentage.

    If there are gaps between perimeters or lines then it might be a slight underextrusion, depending on filament I have had to change my extrusion multiplier between 0.95 and 1.1.

    Also you should be able to get the first layer to adhere without a raft if you’re using PLA, might need to adjust first layer height and/or 1st layer print speed(again not sure what these are in cura). Rafts are usually used for ABS to prevent warping or to add stability to prints with unusual geometry or small footprints, I tend to avoid them as the “bottom” print quality doesnt normally look as nice when using a raft.

    Glad to see an interest in 3d printing! It is a great hobby. And octoprint is an amazing tool as well!

    Reply
  6. Dominic Cordeiro on

    PLA is biodegradable and absorbs moisture overtime, so you might want to use a different type of filament for making your cup.

    On a sidenote, you might want to checkout thingiverse. Its kinda like a github for STL files and 3D printable models. Happy printing! 😀

    Reply
  7. Patel Shubham on

    xD i was preparing to buy a 3D printer recently and now I’m need to buy it to follow my best teacher and his future videos to come (I guess). Keep doing new stuff 👍

    Reply
  8. Intrepid Protoworks on

    I don’t mean to be spammy on your comments. For checking how something will print, X-Ray is helpful. However, looking at the layer height view is really helpful. So, you look at each layer with your layer height in mind. Often, doing so will reveal issues.

    Another non-exclusive issue is that your bottom layer could be too close to the plate which will result in a few layers above being ‘squished’ resulting in the bottom being a little too thin. It is hard to tell from the video if that is the issue though.

    A video series on 3D printing and modeling for prototyping using Fusion 360 is something I have been wanting to do for a while. I also for sure think you should do more 3D printing stuff on your channel!

    Reply
  9. Totial on

    Octoprint is AMAZING!! Lots of pluggins and u can do whatever u want. For the poor floor of the cap check the top layers and bottom layers and the pattern in cura. I use to do 3 layers (with a 0.3 nozzle), lines pattern and 0.5 overlap of the infill and the walls. Hope u get it without leaks 😉

    Reply
  10. V Ng on

    You can try to increase the top and bottom layers, plus maybe use Cura’s ironing feature to help get a more watertight top surface.

    Reply
  11. Jeevan b.m on

    You need more layers on the bottom, basically add more thickness. Since you have a raft it takes a away very small chunks of plastic when you pull it off. That’s causing the leak I’m guessing, adding 2mm to the bottom will fix that.
    Also, your need to get the nozzle closer to the bed, a feeler guage is the best way I know, or use a sheet of paper. I personally never use rafts because of how much more work they are to get off clean and the extra time in print. If you get the bed levelling right most of the initial learning print you do won’t need a raft.

    Reply
  12. d3c0de on

    Nice, love my CR-10 mini. I’m always printing quad parts, and Octoprint is a must. Enjoy the CR-10s, so much room for activities!

    Reply
  13. Rizwan Bin Sulaiman on

    7.46 i would suggest you to make the bottom of the cup 2/3 mim higher than the base. The circumference of the cup will be the same level of base (extra part) and draw the bottom of the cup bit higher,maybe 2 mim higher it will give the proper thickness of bottom that hold water.

    Reply
  14. wpherigo1 on

    Filament Friday, Makers Muse, and DIY 3d Tech.com are some good channels. You’ll need to look back a year or two or more for their coverage of some of the basics. There are also Facebook and Reddit groups. 3D Printed Tabletop is a newer channel, but he explorers the trials and tribulations of learning how to print miniatures for table top games. Leaks – possibly because the filament didn’t quite melt together well enough. You got a great unit. There are a lot of advanced and beta settings in Cura you can use to fine tune or screw up your prints with.

    Reply
  15. golong son on

    This dude is great but his nasal voice reduces my tolerance for longer videos. Five to six min is all I can tolerate that voice. Sorry buddy.

    Reply
  16. Robert Diamond on

    The cup might be less porous with a higher infill %, since the walls are pretty thin, you could probably go 100% – sorry if this is a repeat of an earlier comment.
    Edit: I love Octoprint, and Gina was one of my first Patreons! Also, you’ll probably like OpenSCAD as a modeler.

    Reply
  17. Prerit Rathi on

    Awesome awesome stuff !!!!keep up the good work !

    I missed the *”what is goin on everybody”* though …😋😃

    Reply
  18. King Arthur on

    About the bed adhesion, in my experience with that exact same printer, just having the glass bed isn’t enough and a thin layer of glue from a water washable glue stick can make a huge difference for flat parts that like to warp. (I use PLA)
    But that’s just my printer 🙂

    Reply
  19. Heimo van niekerk on

    3D printing is a pretty nice hobby, I ditched cura pretty early on due to some issues I had with it, I use slic3r prusa edition these days, some of the most common issues are due to the bed level (or bed tramming if you want to be technically correct)and distance between nozzle and the bed..

    Reply
  20. Frank Bank on

    Not sure if you already got an answer but a few things that could help: the layer hight (so the thickness of the slices your printer prints with) seems to be quite close to the thickness of your cups bottom. This will result in a lot of gaps since not every line the printer lays down fuses to the one next to it (not even on a perfectly calibrated machine). A possible fix would be to just go down in layer height meaning not 0.3mm (which I’m guessing you were using but possibly all the way down to 0.1mm. This will make the print take three times as long but also make it more water right. The other option would obviously be to just design the cup with a thicker bottom.
    Other ways to make it hold water better would be to increase the extrusion multiplier.
    Secondly it seemed like, although it is hard to tell, you are printing too hot (but again hard to tell on camera with white filament)

    Reply
  21. vizionthing on

    Suggest you give PETG a go, PLA is prone to fracture under load, particularly on clamps, it fractures over time so is not immediately obvious, PETG holds a place between PLA and ABS its a real sweet spot

    Reply
  22. AlexCell33 on

    I have the same one!

    Pro tip- get a dial indicator and print a mount to help level your bed.

    The binder clips cause about ~7 thousandths of deflection in the glass from center to edge. Use silicon pads only for very flat surface.

    Reply
  23. Elham Aryanpur on

    Maybe when you removed the bottom thing of the cup, it broke some of cup. Try using blender to design for ease aaaaand it should work

    Reply
  24. Dmitry Zenin on

    You should probably avoid using rafts since they make bottom very ugly. Also they are totally unnecessary in 95% of the situation.

    Reply
  25. Daniel Middleton on

    #nohomo my man but you just come across as a really legit, nice dude. Thought I’d just drop that here. You’ve taught me a lot, especially on the Python side. It’d be cool if you did a Unity Tutorials walkthrough for some VR-goodness. https://unity.com/learn

    Reply
  26. Alex on

    Wait! What’s that ‘Boring Company’? Do you have a flame thrower? 😀 You can cure your part with acetone fumes btw. Maybe that will fix leaky spots.

    Reply
  27. zach p on

    Is this the best entry model? It seems reasonably priced but sturdier than most in its range

    Also, what python library are you using for your workouts?

    Reply
  28. Amit Sharma on

    Hi ..if we need to extract pdf table from a pdf document only when the page contains a keyword then how do we do it..

    Reply
  29. Sébastien Lavoie on

    Congrats on such an interesting buy! Do you mind sharing a list of some of the things you’d like to print with it? You got me curious :).

    Reply
  30. Mikerhinos on

    I have the CR10S Pro .
    I tried a lot of solutions to have good adhesion, and I’m not a fan of heating the bed because it pumps a lot of energy (there are many videos with guys measuring electric consumption with and without heating bed), and not really usefull for PLA anyway.
    The best that I found : autolevel (if your printer can) your bed on EACH power on. I have a glass bed, inductive sensor, anti backlash nuts, and I STILL have to do it, and adjust height by -0.2 in Cura at start of print. My next mod is replacing the inductive sensor with a Touch Mi because going from capacitive to inductive didn’t change anything with me…

    Put good quality glue stick, no heat bed, and you’re good to go.

    For your cup, in preview mode in Cura once you sliced the model, look at the 4-5 first layers by moving the slider down on the right of screen, I guess that you must have tiny gaps printing in 0.2, you could test in 0.1 or even 0.16 which is a multiple of 4 (better for the stepper motors).

    If you plan of having food or water in your prints, I guess that you’re using PLA, it’s better to use PETG.

    If you already know all that sorry 😀 It could be useful for someone else :p

    Reply
  31. Mees Broer on

    You could try to increase the amount of top and bottom layers in Cura in order to prevent your print from leaking. And I would also like to add that I’m really surprised how fast I learnt what settings influence your print in what way, so definitely don’t give up trying!

    Reply
  32. Robert Lee on

    I’ve got several CR-10S working on different parts of a project because otherwise it’d take too long. Great machines!

    Reply
  33. Paulo Venz on

    yes I would like to see more 3d printed videos, please do your style of introduction video series of the basics of 3d printing with a creality cr-10, then move on the more advanced series, while you learn along the way

    Reply
  34. XavMathis on

    You need to change your z-axis offset. A lot of 3D printers cut off the base of objects I think because it assumes you have a raft.

    Reply
  35. Na No on

    It’s awesome to see you having fun 3d printing. I hope 3d printers will someday get more optimized so I can get one myself (for decent money).

    Reply
  36. the last Uchiha on

    So you have literally achieved most of the things that anyone wants.. good knowledge, drones, racing car, 3D printer 😅😆 Nice👍

    Reply
  37. Chris Taylor on

    dude, how hasn’t some engineering company pick you up yet? Is there anything in the tech space you can’t do?

    Reply
  38. Kevin C on

    Thin walls and or tops and bottoms are normally caused by the Quality settings in Cura. If your using a .4mm nozzle, and your bottom setting is .4, then only 1 layer will be applied. Changing this to.1.2 give you 3 lines of your .4mm nozzle and 3 lines is normally enough for many objects depending on the weight which it will be expect to hold, and or durability.

    Reply
  39. Lukas Blenk on

    Hy just switched from CURA to Repetier Host and it prints so much faster 6(O.o)9 You should give it a try 🙂

    Reply

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